Homeowner and stylist Joetta Moulden used several decorating tricks to infuse old-time character into her newly remodeled laundry/utility room. One of her tricks was turning a nondescript exterior door into a charming Dutch door. Here’s how she did it.

Skill Level:
Experienced woodworking skills

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Remove the door from its hinges, and place it on sawhorses. Remove the existing latch, deadbolt, and hinges, and fill the holes with wood putty. Let dry, and sand smooth.

2. Mark the position of four hinges (two each for the upper and lower portions of the Dutch door), then install them on the door and doorway jamb. Rehang the door to make sure it swings freely and is positioned correctly. (It is easier to check this before the door is cut.) Remove door from hinges. With a pencil and straightedge, draw two lines ¼ inch apart along the middle of the door’s center rail or where desired. Cut along both lines with a circular saw (see Photo 1).

3. With a router or table saw, cut a 3/8-inch rabbet ¼ inch deep on the top edge of the lower section. Cut a 1/8-inch-thick aluminum bar so it extends slightly beyond the edges of the door; install by countersinking stainless-steel screws. This bar acts as waterproofing and provides a smooth contact surface for the weather stripping. Apply a bead of caulk to the portion of the aluminum bar that extends beyond the door’s edges.

4. Attach a 3/8x3/8-inch stop to the bottom edge of the upper section (see Photo 2). This stop prevents the two door sections from bypassing each other in the wrong direction and damaging the weather stripping. Round the visible edges of the stop with sandpaper. After applying sealer to the bottom edge of the upper door section, apply weather stripping with copper-plated nails.

5. Rehang the door. Cut a 1/4x1-inch wood strip to the width of the door minus ¼ inch, and rout a 10-degree bevel on the top and bottom edges. Use wood glue and finishing nails to attach the wood strip to the exterior side of the upper section. To avoid mistakes, attach this wood strip with the door closed, allowing a 1/8-inch gap on each end so it doesn’t interfere with closing the door. Caulk the strip’s top edge before painting. Install desired hardware.

6. To give a door the look of divided lights (individual glass panes held in place by wood muntins), remove the door from its hinges. Find molding to match the existing molding that holds the glass in place along the window’s perimeter (called sticking). The sticking shown is simple quarter-round molding. For muntin trim, rip 1x stock lumber to ½ inch wide and deep enough that it will be flush with the rest of the door when installed over the muntins. Cut enough molding and 1x stock to apply muntins both inside and out. (Though this door required only vertical muntins, you can install both vertical and horizontal muntins as desired.) Cut both ends of each molding and trim piece with a coping saw so they fit with the existing sticking. Paint or stain as desired, and let dry.

7. To install, glue the molding and trim pieces together to form muntins, then caulk the back of each piece and press into place as desired. Drive a single 5/8-inch brad at an angle into each end (see Photo 3). Fill nail holes with putty, let dry, sand smooth, and touch up with paint or stain, if necessary. Wipe away excess caulk, and let caulk cure as recommended by the manufacturer.