SUMMER UP NORTH
Historic Burntside Lodge near Ely, Minnesota, is a step back in time. The pine lodge and cozy cabins scattered along the shores of Burntside Lake are almost a century old, and the lodge has been operated by generations of the same family-the LaMontagnes-since 1941. Lou and Lonnie LaMontagne took over the resort from his parents 24 years ago and now run it with their grown children, Nicole and Jacques. By day, guests fish and paddle around the lake and swim. They also shop in town or just hang out in the lodge, nibbling home-baked cookies by the fire. But the place to be in the evening is the old-fashioned dining hall, where families reconvene for some of the best locally inspired lodge food around. This is Nicole's territory, and word is out that her cracker-bread pizzas, Canadian walleye, and scratch desserts are worth the trek to northern Minnesota. Luckily, her cooking is fresh and simple enough to enjoy at home as well, and Nicole has kindly shared some of her top recipes.

VISITING BURNTSIDE LODGE
Burntside Lodge is located on Lake Burntside near Ely, Minnesota, and welcomes guests from mid May through September. Cabins accommodate one to six people, and most have cooking facilities. Rates vary from $135 to $420/night, depending on season and size of cabin. Boats are available for rent at the on-site marina. The dining room in the lodge is open to guests and the public for dinner seven days a week and for breakfast on the weekends. Reservations are recommended. 218/365-3894; www.burntside.com.