Fondue is that classic Alpine dish in which diners dip skewered cubes of bread into a communal pot of melted cheese. Although old as the hills (the French writer Brillat-Savarin published a recipe in 1826), it became a defining food fad of the 1970s.

Based on the enthusiasm of guests at The Bavarian Lodge, high in the mountains above Taos, New Mexico, fondue is now experiencing a revival.

Taos Ski Valley, dominated by 13,161-foot Wheeler Peak (highest in the state), hasn’t been the same since Thomas Schulze arrived from his native Germany 10 years ago. Shulze and his wife, Jamie, run this mountaintop retreat where everything—from the traditional marinated sauerbraten to the frescoed walls and the lederhosen-clad servers in the rustic log dining room—is authentically Bavarian.

Skiers can plan their mornings so they ski to the base of the Kachina chairlift around noon, arriving in time for lunch at The Bavarian. The restaurant regularly offers Fondue Night, as well, and features four charming rooms for overnight guests.